The Michelin inspectors giveth and they taketh away in the latest California guide release, which is arriving later in the year than usual. The biggest winners in SF are a handful of new one-star honorees, but the big headline is that SoCal has its first three-star restaurant.

This year's new star rankings were unveiled at an event Monday evening in Los Angeles, and for the Bay Area, there were no dramatic demotions or star-strippings at the two- and three-star level — though Campton Place and Coi fell off the list because they remain closed.

In San Francisco proper, new stars were awarded to Nisei, Osito, San Ho Won, and upscale Korean spot Ssal. With the exception of Ssal, which debuted in 2019, the other three all made their debuts since the pandemic began, and have been generating buzz and accolades — but for many chefs, a Michelin star is a career goal.

Nisei chef David Yoshimura, who came up in the kitchen at two-star Californios, also earned Michelin's Young Chef Award for this year's California Guide, with praise given to his "ambitious and highly personal" cuisine.

Like last year, the Michelin inspectors saw fit to strip stars from a pair of well-loved SF restaurants, both of which have been around for a decade or more: Mourad and SPQR. (Last year it was Octavia and Rich Table, and as is typical with Michelin, there has been no quick comeback and they were not re-awarded stars.) Also losing stars are sushi spots Ju-Ni and Wako, as well as Madera in Menlo Park, and La Toque in Napa.

Elsewhere in the Bay Area, the new incarnation of Cyrus in Geyserville earned a star — and it is likely a candidate for a quick elevation back to the two-star level its earlier Healdsburg incarnation had, by the time next year's guide comes around. And Press in St. Helena earned a star for the first time in its 15 years.

BirdSong held on to the two stars it first earned in 2021, and all of the Bay Area's three-star restaurants remain in place — including Manresa in Los Gatos, despite the fact that it is just three weeks away from an announced closure.

The chef with the most to celebrate on Monday wasn't in the Bay Area — it was Chef William Bradley of San Diego's Addison, which is now the only three-star restaurant in California outside of the Bay Area.

And yes, California now has half of the country's total three-star restaurants, with seven — more than in New York, still.

Below, the full listing for 2022 covering Northern California. See the full ratings and blurbs here.

THREE STARS

Atelier Crenn, San Francisco

Benu, San Francisco

The French Laundry, Yountville

Manresa, Los Gatos

Quince, San Francisco

SingleThread, Healdsburg

TWO STARS

Acquerello, San Francisco

Birdsong, San Francisco

Californios, San Francisco

Commis, Oakland

Harbor House Inn, Elk (Mendocino County)

Lazy Bear, San Francisco

Saison, San Francisco

ONE STAR

Adega, San Jose

Angler, San Francisco

Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

Aubergine, Carmel-by-the-Sea (Monterey County)

Avery, San Francisco

Barndiva, Healdsburg

Chez TJ, Mountain View

Cyrus, Geyserville (NEW)

Gary Danko, San Francisco

Kenzo, Napa

Kin Khao, San Francisco

The Kitchen, Sacramento

Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, San Francisco

Localis, Sacramento (NEW)

Madcap, San Anselmo

Madera, Menlo Park

Marlena, San Francisco

Mister Jiu’s, San Francisco

Niku Steakhouse, San Francisco

Nisei, San Francisco (NEW)

O’ by Claude Le Tohic, San Francisco

Omakase, San Francisco

Osito, San Francisco (NEW)

Plumed Horse, Saratoga

Press, St. Helena (NEW)

The Progress, San Francisco

Protégé, Palo Alto

Selby’s, Atherton

The Shota, San Francisco

Sons & Daughters, San Francisco

Sorrel, San Francisco

Spruce, San Francisco

Ssal, San Francisco (NEW)

State Bird Provisions, San Francisco

Sushi Shin, Redwood City

Sushi Yoshizumi, San Mateo

The Village Pub, Woodside

Wakuriya, San Mateo