Anatomy of a Burrito(phile)

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Dan Johnson of Burritophile wants to meet up at Taqueria El Castillito, on Golden Gate Avenue, just a stone's throw away from City Hall. This SFist knows this to be a good thing, having worked in the area for a number of years. We're well acquainted with the place, and it's gold. To us, it lends a lot of credibility to Dan and Co.'s Web-based burrito review service; one problem with your typical review site is you don't know how the staff's sensibilities mesh with yours.

Cate Czerwinski, another editor at the site, joins us shortly after we ordered. She's actually the one who's behind the editorial review of El Castillito on the site; Cate gave it an 8 out of 10 overall. If we weren't inclined to agree (and we might rate it a tick higher, come to think of it), we could always post our own review on Burritophile. That's the point: Burritophile offers a good, expanding mix of reviews from site staff as well as anyone else who cares to give an opinion. The whole point is to provide visitors near and far with opinions from people passionate about burritos. Or, as the site says, "We are burritophiles--a few people who seek to know everything about eating burritos and want to help others do the same." It also says "we're no more qualified than you--so start writing."

Cate and Dan agree that this is likely the greatest "burrito city" in the country. Burritophile is currently Bay Area- and California-centric, but has reviews from 47 states. Dan tells us that, ultimately, he'd consider the site a true success if he's driving through, say, Lincoln Nebraska, has a hankering for a burrito, and can access Burritophile via a mobile device and find an above-average place to satisfy that craving. Cate, Dan, and a third friend, Aaron Best, had been talking since 2004 about trying something like this, and started Burritophile in July 2005.

Of course, we've had many (a few too many?) burritos in our day, but these guys have turned it into a hobby. This afternoon, we're analogous to the guy that's been to the MOMA a dozen times but never bothered to take the guided tour until today; Dan and Cate are serving as the docents.

It turns out to be pretty enlightening eating. Dan's excited--he'd just broken a "bad streak" (a whole slew of sub-par burritos) the day before, and his "al pastor" at Castillito continues this positive trend. He breaks it down.

"This burrito totally rocks," he says. "Al pastor can be very very difficult -- when it's good, it's really good; when it's bad, it's really bad--very little middle ground."

Then the history lesson: "The traditional way to do it is to slow barbeque it with pineapple on top; while this one doesn't have a whole lot of pineapple-y flavor, it's got that nice, sharp grilled flavor, and they've got onions . . ."

We cut him off to comment on the interesting texture of the onions and to agree with his assessment of the flavor.

"Al pastor can be about the greasiest thing you can get," Dan says. "A lot of times you'll end up with a little puddle at the bottom of your basket. But, on the other hand, it can be a good way to judge a good taqueria from bad. If they can do a good al pastor, the odds are they'll do at least one or two other things well."

He looks at his burrito. "Today, they've done an amazing job with integrating this all the way through," he mentions. "It's about the same proportion of ingredients at the bottom as it was in the beginning -- that's awesome."

He's particularly pleased today, as he says El Castillito has an occasional habit, as do other places, of putting in too much meat and not dispersing it well, to the point where he's experienced bites that are 80%-90% meat. He guesses that keeping the proportions good throughout must be very hard to do. "That's what kills a lot of burritos that I've had," he says.

"A good al pastor burrito is one of the rare pleasures in life," he adds, before correcting himself. "A good burrito is one of the rare pleasures in life."

Cate calls him on that though. "You're exaggerating now," she says. They both laugh; they put a lot of time into this and are dedicated, but they don't take their burritophiling efforts overly seriously. They tend to have fun with it.

No al pastor for Cate -- she's vegetarian, and when the conversation drifts to Papalote on 24th Street, she cites it as having "the best tofu burrito in the city," really emphasizing "tofu," as if sort of saying "whatever that's worth." While she hasn't gotten around to posting an official review of that up on Burritophile, she lauds that they actually marinate the tofu. While she enjoys that burrito, she's not always excited about vegetarian options. "Things like 'soyrizo' can be a little intense," she says.

We asked their preference--rice or no rice? After all, many of our past commenters on SFist have derided the use of rice in a burrito. But rice is okay with Dan and Cate, who say that it's beneficial for purposes of structural integrity and can also help with grease reduction (perhaps in the situation with al pastor mentioned above). So long as its something akin to a flavorful Spanish rice, and not some kind of bland white rice or "the cilantro-lime rice from Chipotle," they think a burrito can generally benefit from it. Though, Dan adds, lettuce in a burrito is criminal.

"Why would you put something in that's cold and makes things wetter?" he remarks.

While they aren't sure what direction Burritophile will go in as far as the revenue generation sense, Cate says providing the service is the main point.

"If we never made a dime off of it, it'd be fantastic--if it works," she says. There were 610 reviews on Burritophile (combined editorial and user) the day we met at El Castillito -- barely three weeks later, there are already far more. If the trend keeps going, they could be well on their way.

We asked what burrito places they'd consider "must eats"; those few places that it's a crime if you're a San Francisco resident and have not tried. Dan and Cate both mention Cuco's at 488 Haight St., which they consider to be their "home burrito base" (and both rated a "9"). As a vegetarian, Cate's particularly enamored of Cuco's plantain burrito, which Dan also lauds as "one of the great undiscovered things in San Francisco." He also enjoys the pollo asado, saying it's fantastic.

"The meat is sliced right off the bone into your burrito," he says.

Dan also mentions that, "You can't go wrong where you're sitting right now." Undoubtedly comforting to SFist Cedric, Dan and Cate agree that the Castillito at Church Street and Market is "amazing." Dan's favorite place is still down in Mountain View, near where he grew up--Taqueria Los Charros (naturally, a "10"!).

"Still the best carnitas I've ever had," he says, "bar none."

Dan enjoys Taqueria San Francisco; Cate differs with him on this one. "From the vegetarian point of view, it's not really worth it," she says.

It's no coincidence they haven't mentioned some of the better-known places.

"I'll go on record and say that the places everybody says are great kinda aren't that good," Dan says, specifically citing Pancho Villa, El Farolito, and Cancun as those that don't lived up to the hype.

Ultimately, the folks from Burritophile tell us that finding the "best burrito" comes down to what one is looking for--if you ask them for a place where the al pastor is great, they can tell you--however, "best burrito" is probably too open ended. And that, in essence, is why a site like Burritophile, with detailed editorial and reader reviews from all over the place, can prove to be very, very useful.

Comments (9) [rss]

I'll have to check out their site. I don't usually listen to someone who is vegetarian when it comes to burritos (or much else food related), but know the burrito continues to evolve in our modern city.

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I agree with B'phile's Cate that Papalote's veggie burritos are outstanding. If only they knew how to make it hot...I'll certainly give Cuco's a try.

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These people have the widget. And who doesn't love their site's mule logo?

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Wow, Mary, what do you think we vegetarians eat, air? I promise you that most of us know plenty about food, especially as the challenge of not eating meat causes us to find a lot of creative methods of preparation. I didn't get this fat ass from eating brown rice every day!

Eve, perhaps I sounded close minded and a wee bit haughty! Yes, I know, vegetarians don't eat air. I used to cook for a vegetarian as a job, and quickly learned it requires planning and creativity. But in my own home and when I go out, I am generally seeking out meaty rather than vegetarian options.

My point was more that I wouldn't eat a vegetarian burrito or pay attention to it on the menu because I enjoy the meat version much more. In my mind, my favorite burrito is meaty. But that's me.

It brings to mind a debate I've had in other places-can a vegetarian be a food critic for the general population? I don't think so but others may disagree.

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Conversely, can an omnivorous food critic accurately represent the vegetarian or vegan population? I think not as well . . . I think you are right on target with that, Mary

Dang, the Burritophile looks fabulous for having consumed all those burritos. I used to eat at Taqueria el Castillo all the time (when I lived in the Tenderloin), and I literally gained weight after each burrito. Originally, I couldn't eat one, it was so big. Now, I can eat one in 10 mins, and I am hungry afterward. Look what SF does to you.

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You should see Dan talk about burritos in person. If you see him on the street- stop him and ask him where the best closest place is, and I swear- he'll give you 3-5 options with descriptions off the top of his head.

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